Vicious Dishes


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Despite cheese's presence in nearly every cuisine in the world, East Asian food in general rarely includes cheese. It's something you don't really think about until you realize how surprising it is, especially compared to our cheese-centric, artery-clogging American diet.

Think of traditional Japanese, Korean, and Chinese restaurants. There is no cheese. They are cheeseless.


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Sans cheese. Lacking any semblance of cheese. In Chinese culture, cheese consumption was historically limited to nomadic tribes living on the fringes of society who were generally viewed as outsiders or barbarians.

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So back then, eating cheese was associated with an unsavory lifestyle. And that connotation stuck with the food till semi-recently, when Western cuisine started infiltrating mainstream Asian culture.

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In much of East Asia this was the traditional way they looked at cheese, the stereotype stuck, and it worked to dissuade the country from relying on cheese as a food staple. But there are more factors that eliminated cheese from East Asian diets beyond the risk of being socially uncouth.

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So they couldn't exactly use animals they need for farming purposes to create milk for cheese. Which makes sense. But the biggest reason Asian cultures don't regularly incorporate cheese into their cooking is probably because so many East Asians are lactose intolerant.

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In fact, they're drastically more likely to be lactose intolerant than Westerners. And so many East Asians are lactose intolerant because of a lack of exposure to cheese. It's a vicious cycle. But it started somewhere. Humans by design are predisposed to be lactose intolerant. The only reasons Westerners mostly lost this intolerance was due to centuries of eating cheese and having their bodies evolve to adapt to consuming it.

When our ancestors moved out of the Fertile Crescent -- teeming with wildlife -- and into northern regions like Europe, there arose a need for protein that didn't come from animal meat since there were fewer animals to hunt.

After the war, the union kept up its efforts and sent fondue kits to the troops. Before that, fondue was a smart trick for making bread taste better once it had started to go stale. Heat aged cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs and — voila!

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Then again, how poorly can you really do a pot of cheese? This cheese was traditionally melted at the fireside and then scraped, fabulously meltily, over potatoes, onions, and pickles. The word Raclette these days sometimes also refers to the grill itself, which works like this. Watch for small huts or chalets, vending machines in the middle of nowhere yes really , or small fridges set up outside houses on the edge of the trails with honesty jars beside them.

Take what you need. Leave the appropriate amount of francs in the honesty jar.


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  6. And enjoy. You can also make your way to the Bern farmers market for unusual varieties like pine-needle cheese. While risotto is Italian, so is the canton of Ticino. But it speaks Italian. Eats Italian food.

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    And feels like a slightly more organized version of Italy where the trains run on time. For the best risotto, ask around for the best local grotto tavern. Originally, in the Middle Ages, this thick, sweet syrup was used as a sweetener. Today, they serve it up with crepes, meringues, or ice cream as a dessert in its own right. To make it, you start with coarsely grated potatoes, pan fry them with salt and pepper, and shape them into patties.

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